Chain & Charge

Bike Lock Security Ratings Explained

Sold Secure, ABUS and Kryptonite ratings decoded — what Bronze, Silver, Gold and Diamond actually promise, and which you need.

By Stephen V.Last updated How we pick

Every lock maker calls its product secure, so the word on the box tells you almost nothing. What actually helps is an independent rating — a grade awarded by a third party that attacked the lock the way a thief would and measured how it held up. This guide decodes the ratings you’ll see when you shop: the independent Sold SecureBronze, Silver, Gold and Diamond grades, plus the in-house scales from ABUS and Kryptonite. The goal is to leave you able to read a lock’s rating, understand what it promises, and match it to your own risk instead of trusting the marketing.

Why third-party ratings beat marketing

A manufacturer has every reason to make its lock sound impregnable, and no obligation to test it against a common standard. An independent testing body has the opposite incentive: its whole value is that the grade means the same thing across every brand it certifies. That is why a rating from a neutral tester is worth far more than a number a brand assigned itself. The tester subjects a lock to a defined battery of attacks — the tools, the time, the techniques a real thief uses — and only awards a grade if the lock survives to the required level.

The practical upside is comparability. Two locks from different companies with the same independent grade have cleared the same bar, so you can weigh them on price, weight and fit rather than trying to translate one brand’s marketing into another’s. That is the single most useful habit when buying a lock: shop by the independent grade first, then everything else.

It’s worth being clear about what these testers do and don’t promise. A grade reflects how a lock performed against a defined set of tools for a defined effort — it is not a guarantee the lock is uncuttable, because given enough time, noise and the right power tool, almost anything can be cut. What the grade tells you is how much work you’re forcing a thief to do, which is the real currency of bike security: the longer and louder the attack, the more likely the thief gives up or gets caught. Read a rating as a measure of resistance, not invincibility.

Sold Secure: Bronze, Silver, Gold and Diamond

Sold Secure is the independent benchmark most commonly cited for bike locks. It grades a lock by how well it resists a defined set of attacks, on a ladder from Bronze up to Diamond. In broad terms, Bronze offers protection against basic tools and opportunist theft; Silversteps up to resist a wider tool set and is a sensible floor for a bike you’d be sad to lose; Gold represents strong resistance to hand and leverage tools and is the grade most often recommended for valuable bikes in higher-risk areas.

Diamondsits at the top and is tested against the most determined attacks, including the angle-grinder test on products built to resist cutting — the class we cover in angle-grinder-proof locks. The exact tools and time thresholds behind each grade are defined by Sold Secure and are periodically revised, so the authoritative description of what each attack test involves is the Sold Secure source listed below. Read it there rather than relying on any one summary, this one included.

A useful way to picture the ladder is by the tools each grade is expected to shrug off. The lower grades are about defeating opportunists working with basic or improvised tools; the middle grades add resistance to the hand tools — bolt cutters, hacksaws, leverage bars — that most thieves actually carry; and the top grade brings power tools into the test. The exact tool sets are the tester’s to define, but the shape is intuitive: the grade you need climbs with the value of the bike and the sophistication of theft where you live. Buying a grade above the minimum is rarely wasted money on a bike you’d struggle to replace.

Manufacturer scales: ABUS and Kryptonite

Alongside independent grades, the big lock brands publish their own scales, and these are useful — as long as you understand their limits. ABUS rates its locks on a security level scale, and Kryptonite rates its own on a 1-to-10 scale. Within a single brand these are genuinely helpful: a higher number means a stronger lock in that maker’s range, so they let you compare, say, two Kryptonite U-locks against each other at a glance.

The trap is treating them as cross-brand currency. A brand calibrates its scale to its own lineup, so a number on the ABUS scale doesn’t translate to the same number on Kryptonite’s, and neither maps cleanly onto a Sold Secure grade. When you’re comparing locks from different companies, lean on the independent grade and use the maker’s own number only to rank within that brand. Our best U-locks guide shows both kinds of rating side by side so you can see how they line up in practice.

There’s a subtler reason to treat maker scales carefully: the brand controls both the lock and the test, so the scale is a sales aid as much as a spec. That doesn’t make it dishonest — a well-run brand’s internal ranking genuinely tracks its own locks’ relative strength — but the incentive runs the opposite way from an independent tester’s. When a lock carries both an in-house number and an independent grade, let the independent grade lead and treat the maker’s number as extra detail about where the lock sits in its own range.

Matching a rating to your risk — and keeping it current

A rating is only meaningful next to the risk it’s protecting against. Three factors push the grade you need upward: the value of the bike, how long it’s left unattended, and how much theft happens where you park. A low-value bike locked briefly in a quiet town is well served by a Silver-grade lock; a valuable bike in a busy city wants Gold; and an e-bike left outdoors for long stretches justifies the top tier, as our best e-bike locks explain. If your budget is the limit, the best budget bike locks still clear a genuine grade rather than dropping below it.

A quick way to sanity-check your choice is to picture the theft you’re actually guarding against. If the realistic threat is an opportunist trying handles in a quiet neighborhood, a mid-grade lock used well is plenty. If it’s an organized thief with power tools working a city rack overnight, no single lock is a guarantee and you’re buying time, visibility and the deterrent of two locks rather than one. Most riders sit between those poles, which is why Gold is such a common recommendation — it clears the hand-tool threat behind the majority of thefts without the weight and cost of the very top tier.

One last habit matters: ratings change. Testing standards are revised as thieves’ tools improve, and a model can be re-tested or re-graded over time, so a rating you read in an old review may not match the current one. Before you buy, confirm the lock’s current grade with the maker and the independent tester, and treat any summary — including this page — as a starting point to verify, not the final word.

General guidance, not professional advice. Chain & Charge is written by an enthusiast, not a bike mechanic, and we do not run a test lab. Laws, security ratings and specs change — verify your state’s current e-bike rules and a lock’s current security rating before you rely on them, and set any new gear up per the maker’s instructions.

Frequently asked questions

What is a Sold Secure rating?

Sold Secure is an independent UK body that tests security products against a defined set of attacks and awards a grade — Bronze, Silver, Gold or Diamond — based on how long and how well a lock resists. Because the test is the same across brands and run by a third party, a Sold Secure grade is a far more reliable comparison than a manufacturer's own marketing claim.

What is the difference between Sold Secure Gold and Diamond?

Both are high grades, but Diamond is the top tier and is tested against the most determined attacks, including angle-grinder cutting on the products designed to resist it. Gold represents strong resistance to hand and leverage tools and is enough for most valuable bikes, while Diamond targets the highest-risk situations. Always check the current test details on the Sold Secure source, since the standards are periodically revised.

Are ABUS and Kryptonite security levels comparable?

Not directly. ABUS uses its own security level scale and Kryptonite uses a 1-to-10 scale, and each is calibrated to that brand's own range — a number on one scale doesn't map to the same number on the other, or to a Sold Secure grade. Use a maker's scale to compare locks within that brand, and use an independent grade like Sold Secure to compare across brands.

What lock rating do I actually need?

Match it to your risk. For a low-value bike in a quiet area, a Silver-grade lock is often enough; for a valuable bike or a busy city, aim for Gold; and for the highest-risk situations or an e-bike left outdoors, look at the top tier. Bike value, how long it's left, and local theft rates all push the rating you need upward. When in doubt, buy up a grade.

Sources

  • Sold Secure — Ratings explainedThe Bronze / Silver / Gold / Diamond lock ratings and what each attack test involves, including the Diamond angle-grinder test (accessed July 23, 2026)

Keep reading